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Well I turned in my watch the week of Thanksgiving for a pulled crown/stem. Came back yesterday at my AD. So far everything looks good. According to the invoice, they did an intermediate service, replaced 2 gaskets, quality control, movement adjustment and pressure test. I also got some free stuff from BUSA. I don't see any new scratches or any evidence of mishandling. I'd have to say, I'm very happy for the service and quick turn around. No horror story in my case.
Sorry to post yet another (Arrived Thread) but I couldn't resist. My Accutron "Gemini" 26A09 just came today and I had to snap some disappointing cell phone pics. I swear one of these days I'm going to buy a camera that actually makes these watches look nice! Anyways here is my feeble attempt at photo shoot
One of my watches is a quartz chronograph. Sometimes, when I reset the stopwatch, it returns to ABSOLUTE zero. Other times, it's a half-second to the left or a half second to the right of the mark. I guess that's no big deal.....unless you're very neurotic like me. Why is the stopwatch hand not consistent? the hand
After 10 years, the 2254 is back on my wrist. When I last had one, I was a brand new owner of a 16610, which was purchased for full price with taxes (12% discounted) from my AD. At the time, I probably didn't want to admit that the SMP made my shiny Sub look a bit overpriced. My wrists were half an inch smaller back then, and I was uncomfortable with either watch, so I quickly sold both. Ever since then, I've had the 2254 on my short list of watches to buy. OMEGA's decision to discontinue it was the last provocation that I needed, but finding one at a good price was not easy because most of them that pop up on sales forums are snatched up immediately. Last weekend, I chanced upon this gently enjoyed example from a gentleman in in New York and pounced on it within 5 minutes of his posting. The Speedy style bracelet and sword hands are my favorite features. This is a keeper for sure. The lume shot has been enhanced with Photoshop's auto contrast filter.
Hello everyone. Total newbie here. I haven't even purchased my first Rolex yet. But, I've been researching quite a bit. I saw the abbreviations thread (thanks for that). But I'm trying to understand the Rolex numbering scheme.Anyone have a Rolex primer on what pattern is used in the numbering system?In my research, I really like the Stainless Steel DateJust 41, Oyster, Rhodium or Silver face, Smooth Bessel. It seems like a well rounded first Rolex that can fit as an every day wearer that can be more casual or formal. I've found it as low as 6100 on Truefacet (but usually closer to 6400) and as high as the list 7350 at the local AD. But when you add 10% sales tax, it is difficult to pay a 20% premium just to buy it locally.I'd love any and all advice or direction. Any really obvious pitfalls I'm overlooking?
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